Monday, 24 February 2014

Textile Dictionary | A Glossary of Selected Fiber and Textile Terms

Textile dictionary is very essential for a Textile students or Engineers of any person related in Textile sector. Hey, all here l like to place a Textile dictionary. I hope it will help you.

To get/free download Textile Dictionary please visit:  Textile dictionary free download

Article Writer:
Iftakhar Amin
Primeasia University, Dhaka
Co-editor/Admin, Textile Storage




Marker | Preparations of Marker Making

Before the marker making, some preparatory processes would be followed. The processes are discussed ago (In preparatory processes chapter). Without those, some others preparations are-

  1. Marking Grain Line: Before marker making, the grain line of pattern and fabric must be marked.
  2. Fabric Measurement: Before marker planning, the fabric must be measured carefully. Because, marker width is relevant to the minimum fabric width.
  3. Fabric Faults: Fabric faults would be also under consideration. In a fabric roll, where any faults found, that points must be avoided for quality production and to least the fabric wastage.Cutting
  4. Table: Marker planner should consider the cutting table length before making marker. Marker length must be less than the cutting table length.


Article Writer:
Md. Mozahidul Islam 
Primeasia University, Dhaka
Co-editor, Textile Storage

Difference Between Sewing and Embroidery | Sewing vs Embroidery

Sewing vs Embroidery 
Sewing and embroidery are two arts that are known to mankind since ancient times. It is sewing that makes possible making of garments to be worn by men, women, and kids. Embroidery is a similar art that is primarily used to decorate fabrics and garments. There are similarities in the two arts that create confusion in the minds of the people. Both make use of needles and threads but require different sets of skills. There are many differences between sewing and embroidery that will be highlighted in this article.


Sewing
Sewing is an art that is used to join together faces and edges of fabric to create garments. It is a craft that is known to mankind since ancient times. It was there even before man learnt to make thread or yarn as fur or grasses were used to stitch together skin or hides of animals. This was done with the help of animal bones or stones. But today, sewing can be done using hands or with a sewing machine. Thread is used to sew a garment and small stitches are made to hold the two edges together. Sewing is not to be confused with embroidery or knitting as it is a constructive craft that is not used for decoration. Sewing is necessary to make functional clothes.

Embroidery
Embroidery is a craft that makes use of needles and threads to create beautiful patterns and designs over fabrics. It is a decorative art that makes raised patterns over fabrics to beautify the necklines, waistlines, and even the entire garment meant to be worn on special occasions. Embroidery is also done on bed sheets, quilts, and table covers to make them more beautiful. Till the arrival of mechanization, kings and nobles patronized skilled artisans to make embroidered clothing for themselves. There was a time when such clothes were used only by the rich and wealthy. But today, embroidery has become very common and is done with machines for large scale commercial production. Embroidery is also used to make personalized workwear for advertisement and branding purposes. To make ornamental raised patterns, threads of silk, silver, gold, and cotton are used through embroidery over different fabrics. Monograms and badges used in institutions are usually embroidered.

What is the difference between Sewing and Embroidery?

• Sewing is a constructive craft, whereas embroidery is a decorative art.
• Garments cannot be produced without sewing thereby making it a more functional craft than embroidery.
• Embroidery creates raised designs and patterns over fabric, whereas sewing creates stitches to hold together edges and faces of fabrics.
• There are differences in methods of sewing and embroidery.
• The threads used for embroidery are also different from threads used for sewing.
• Sewing can be done using hands or with a sewing machine while embroidery is also done with hands or with the help of embroidery machines.
• Embroidery was once considered an expensive art and the garments so produced were used by royalties and nobles.
• Embroidery is also used to create badges for institutions and armed forces units to give a unique identity to the members.

Difference Between Woven and Nonwoven Fabrics | Woven vs Nonwoven Fabrics

Woven vs Non-woven Fabrics 
Mankind has been making use of fabrics since ancient times. We wear garments made of fabrics, sit on upholstery that is mostly fabric and sleep on sheets made of these fabrics. One of the most common ways of making fabrics is weaving. However, in addition to woven fabrics, there is another category of fabrics that is non-woven. These fabrics have been around us and also in use for quite some time though many of us do not know the difference. This article attempts to find out the differences between woven and non-woven fabrics.


Woven Fabrics
Weaving is the very common method of making fabrics, and it has been used since ages to make different fabrics. We are never bothered with the manner in which fabrics are made as long as we get the right color and texture for our dress. However, the fact is that threads or yarn goes through a process called weaving to be converted into a fabric. In weaving, two or more threads run in perpendicular to each other, to make a pattern called warp and waft. Warp threads run up and down the length of the fabric while waft threads run sideways across the fabric and this weaving of the two threads creates a woven pattern call fabric. Waft threads go over the warp thread and then they go under the next warp thread. If you have ever seen a basket maker weaving baskets, you know how a woven fabric is made.

Non-woven Fabrics
Nonwoven materials are not really fabrics though they give us a feel of being fabrics. There is no interlacing of yarn for internal cohesion as in a woven fabric. In fact, there is organized internal structure in a nonwoven fabric. We have been using these products for quite some time now without knowing about them. It is said that Saint Christopher and Saint Clement placed wool in their sandals to prevent blisters while fleeing to escape persecution and at the end of their journey, this wool turned into woolen socks for them. This is the basic principle of formation of nonwoven fabrics and felt is one of the most common examples of such fabrics. Nonwoven fabrics are made by placing together several fibers and pressing them using heat and pressure to create a fabric. Sometimes adhesive is also used to convert fibers into nonwoven fabrics.

What is the difference between Woven and Non-woven Fabrics?

• Most of the fabrics are made by weaving or knitting.
• Nonwoven fabrics are actually not fabrics as they have no internal structure as such.
• Felting and bonding are used to create nonwoven fabrics, whereas weaving requires warp and weft    threads to create an interlaced pattern like the weaving in baskets.
• Woven fabrics are much stronger than nonwoven fabrics.
• Nonwoven fabrics are mostly used for interlining or to make hats or other handicrafts.

What is Denim? | Denim vs Jeans | Types of denim

The continuing appeal of denim apparel, especially jeans, has ensured that the demand for denim fabric remains robust. In turn, robust demand has resulted in sizeable trade flows in denim fabric across markets. The top exporting countries of Denim fabric are China, Hong Kong, the USA, Italy, Turkey, Japan, India, Brazil, Spain and Pakistan.


The term “Denim” has originated from the city of Nimes in France where “ serge de Nimes” was manufactured. Denim fabric is dyed by Vat or Indigo dye, which is applied to cotton fabric in loosely held form in layers. In manufacturing process of denim , it is similar to that of Grey fabric up to the process of weaving with the only difference that in case of Denim fabric, it is dyed at the stage of sizing where as in case of Grey fabric, the decision regarding dyeing stage depands upon the finished product. Generally, denim fabric are 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp & an undyed weft yarn. Normally dyed & grey ring or open- end yarns are used in warp & weft respectively. Traditionally speaking, the warp yarn is indigo dyed. Now a days Indigo, Sulphur black, Blue black(dyed both in black & indigo color) & various Colored denim in both stretch & nonstretch form are widely used world wide.

Denim is a very versatile fabric, and is very popular for a variety of shade,looking & handfeel on same fabric for different types of wash. Actually wash is known as ornament for Denim fabric.

Denim vs Jeans
Denim and jeans are words that are confusing for many people because of the use of the word denim for many different garments made for men and women. In some parts of the world, the word denim is used interchangeably with jeans in such a manner that people refer to jeans as denim. However, the two words refer to two different things and the use of the word denim for jeans is wrong as will be clear to the readers after reading this article.

Jeans
Jeans is one garment worn by people of all ages around the world that needs no introduction today. Introduced by Levi Strauss as a copper riveted cotton trouser in the 2nd half of the 19th century, jeans has today become a type of trouser that is seen in the wardrobe of most men and women across the world. It has a universal appeal and a very youthful and rugged image.
Jeans is considered casual wear and worn by men and women outside workplaces. Students cannot live without their basic 5 pocket jeans and have many pairs of jeans in their wardrobes to be ready for all occasions. Jeans are preferred by people over other formal trousers as these can be worn without the need for press. Jeans also do not require washing frequently like other formal trousers. Blue is the color that gives jeans their unique identity though today they are available in many over dyed colors.

Denim
Denim is the name of the fabric that is used to make jeans. It is a fabric made of cotton twill that is 100% cotton and very comfortable. This fabric is used all over the world to make jeans, jackets, shirts, purses, bags, and many other accessories for men and women of all ages. However, ‘jeans’ is a garment that has given this fabric an identity. This fabric is woven with warp yarn that is blue cotton and a filling yarn that is white cotton to create twill that has diagonal running parallel lines. Denim is so commonly used to make readymade garments and accessories that today it is found in all stores selling readymade apparels.

What is the difference between Jeans and Denim?
  1. Denim is the fabric whereas jeans is the trouser that is made of denim cloth
  2. Denim is used to make not just jeans but also shirts and skirts apart from many other accessories
  3. Denim is made of heavy twill
  4. All jeans are denim, but not all denims are jeans
  5. Denim is a fashion fabric used to make many things, whereas jeans is just one of the garments made from denim

What is Textile? | Basic Textiles

What is Textile?  
The word ''textile'' originally applied only to woven fabrics, now generally applied to fibers, yarns, or fabrics or products made offers, yarns or fabrics. The term textile originates from the latin verb texere to weave but, as the Textile Institute's Terms and Definitions Glossary explains, it is now ''a general term applied to any manufacture from ffibers, filaments or yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Length to thickness''
Textiles, especially fabrics the fundamental component of a ready made garment, because it is the basic raw material of a garment. So it is important to know the manufacturing sequence of fabric from fiber. The quality product is the main goal at present time, Without knowledge of Textile manufacturing i.e. fiber, yarn and fabrics it is impossible to maintain the quality of a garment. Before elaborating on whole process of grey fabric manufacturing Let us look on what is textile fiber, yarn and fabric and what are the process flow chart of Textile Manufacturing can be described.
Normally, textile is a woven fabric; now applied generally to any one of the following:
  1. Staple fibers and filaments suitable for conversion to or use as yarns, or for the preparation of woven, knit, or nonwoven fabrics.
  2. Yarns made from natural or manufactured fibers.
  3. Fabrics and other manufactured products made from fibers as defined above and from yarns.
  4. Garments and other articles fabricated from fibers, yarns, or fabrics when the products retain the characteristic flexibility and drape of the original fabrics.
Textile is a very widely used term which includes:
  1. All kinds of fibers(e.g: Cotton,Jute, Wool, Polyester, Viscose etc)
  2. All kinds of Process(e.g: Spinning, Weaving, Knitting, Dyeing, Printing, Finishing etc.)
  3. All kinds of machineries (e.g: Spinning machineries, Weaving machineries, Knitting machineries,       Dyeing machineries, Testing machineries etc.)
  4. To convert textile fiber into finished or end use products(e.g: Garments, Technical textiles, Geo textiles, Medical textiles, E-textiles etc.)

Free Download | Your Textile Ebooks | Textile Dictionary


Some E-Books are given below with download links for Textile Engineers. You can collect them and increase your knowledge.

** (To download the files click the link given below. Then a new page is opened with a "SKIP AD" at up-right corner. Click "SKIP AD" after waiting 5 min.Then you get the Download link).

Seam | Properties of seam | Appearance | Performance

Properties of seam: Properties of seam are assessed on the following aspects-

Appearance: After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, or unsightly view.


Performance: Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria-
  1. Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric strength.
  2. Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than the fabric elasticity.
  3. Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric. Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due to frictional forces and tension.
  4. Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simple reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seam fails due to normal reason the situation might be undue.

Packing | Types of Packing | Cartoon

Packing: Packing is one of the most important parts of apparel manufacturing process. After completing the entire manufacturing task, apparel is required to pack. In finishing section, packing is the last steps before storing. Various types of packing are done and it depends on the type of apparel. After packing, it placed in cartoon as per instruction. After cartooning, carton is stored in store section. The carton is delivered from the store for export.

Types of packing in finishing section: Different types of packing are done in finishing section. Following is the most used packing types –
  1. Stand up pack: Shirt (900 angle)
  2. Flat pack: Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser
  3. Hanger pack: Blazer, Coats, Pants 
  4. Semi stand up pack: Shirt 
  5. Half fold pack: Pant
Types of Carton Packing: After packing, cartoning is done according to apparel size and color. Most used packing types are given below:
  1. Solid color Solid size pack
  2. Solid color Assorted size pack
  3. Assorted color Solid size pack
  4. Assort color Assort size pack

Carton packing may be varying according to Buyer’s requirement. Carton pack may be-
  1. 12pcs/Carton
  2. 24pcs/Carton
  3. 36pcs/pack

So, in finishing section, finishing in-charge should be more careful during packing and cartoning.

An example of Assort size, Assort color packing for 12 pcs garments: 




A Carton contains some information like-

P/O No : 143366
Style No : 302SIUO
Color:  965 – Urban Grey
Size: XL
Quantity: 52 Pcs
Carton No: 01
Destination: Italy
Made in Bangladesh
Gross wt : 19Kg
Net wt : 17.5Kg
Carton Measurement : 60 × 40 × 40




Weaving | Shed | Types of Shed

Shed
  1. Size of shed is very critical. It should allow a secured weft insertion. 
  2. The requirements of shed opening are determined by -  #  The means of weft insertion.   # Beat up motion.
  3. It is desirable to have a small shed opening in order to reduce the left of heald frames and therefore to reduce the stress on the warp.
However, the magnitude of shed opening is mostly determined by the size of weft insertion device.

C =   The depth of the shed at the front wall of the shuttle 
A =   The width of the shuttle 
B =   The distance from the cloth fell to the reed
D =   The depth of the shed at the reed

During the passage of the shuttle, B and D both vary because of the motion of reed and D will also vary owing to the movement of the heald shafts unless the passage of the shuttle coinsides with the period of dwell.

 
Types of shed: 

Shed is broadly into two classes namely. They are…
  1. Open shed 
  2. Closed shed
Closed shed: In the closed shed, the mechanism employed places all the warp threads level after the insertion of each pick of weft.

Open shed: In open shed, the warp is only moved when the pattern requires a change of position.
  
Closed sheds are classified into two types:
  1. Bottom closed shed
  2. Centre closed shed 
Bottom closed shed: This kind of shed is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the upper line. Under this condition, the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence, in order to form a top shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice the depth of a shed, once up and once down, before a fresh selection is made. This kind of shed is known as a stationary bottom with a rising and falling top.

In the figure A represents the bottom line of warp, B is the rising and falling line and C an arrow showing the space passed through

Demerits:
  1. If takes a long time to produce a shed.
  2. Not suitable for high speed loom.
  3. Strain on warp is high.

Uses: Certain tappets, Single lift dobbies and jacquards produce bottom closed shed.


Center closed shed: Center closed shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which are to form the top line and a downward movement to the threads which are to form the bottom line, then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the centre between the highest and lowest lines of a divided warp.

In the figure A is the closed warp line, B and C are respectively the upper and lower lines of a divided warp and D and E are arrows which show the movement of each thread to equal the depth of a shed, namely half the distance in an upward and half in a downward direction.

Merits: Power consumption and wear and tear of loom parts is low.

Uses: Many woodcraft tappers and some hands looms use centre closed shed.


Semi open shed: This is formed under both open and closed principles. Here a stationary bottom line is refined, but threads from the top line either pass to the bottom at one movement or carried out to the top. The remaining threads move down.
In the figure, A is the stationary bottom, B the top line and C the point where downward movement ceases in threads that are to form part of the top line for the succeeding pick. D and E are arrows showing the movement of through healds and F that of threads which are to lift for the next pick.

Uses: Many double lift dobby and jacquard used this shed.


Open shed:  In this types of shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, one at the top and another at the bottom .After inserting a pick change are made by carrying threads from one fixed line to the other. So some threads are lowered from the top line and some are raised from the bottom line during the change raising and lowering of the threads occurred simultaneously.
 

Uses: Open shed is produced by the used of ordinary tappets.



Count | Count measureemnt system | Count conversion system


Count: Count is a numerical expression by which we denoted the coarseness or fineness of textile materials such as yarn.

Acceding to the textile Institute: Count is defined as “A number is determined the mass per length or the length per unit.”

Count Measurement system: There is two systems for the measurement of count.
  1. Direct System
  2. Indirect System

Direct System

In this counting system, the yarn number or count is the weight of a unit length of yarn. Here, higher the number, finer the yarn and vice versa. Here, the weight of yarn is fixed, length is variable. 

Formula:
 
Where,   N =  Yarn count
               L = Length of sample
               l =  Unit length
               W = Weight of sample

 Commonly used units in this system of measurement are:-
  1. Tex ( 1 Tex = 1g/ 1000m )
  2.  Spyndle (1 Syndle = 1lb/14400yds)
  3. Denier ( 1 Denier = 1g/ 9000m ) 

Indirect System

In this counting system the yarn number or count is the length of a unit weight of yarn. Here, lower the number, finer the yarn and vice versa. Here, the length of yarn is fixed, weight is variable.

Formula:

Where,   N =  Yarn count
               L = Length of sample
               l =  Unit length
              W = Weight of sample
               w =  Unit weight

Commonly used units in this system of measurement are:-
  1. Cotton or English Count
  2. Metric Count
  3. Worsted Count
English count (Ne): It is an indirect system of count. It is defined as follows- No of hank of 840yds length per pound or No of hanks (840yds = 1hank) per lb

Tex: It is a direct system of count. It is defined as follows- No of grams per Kilometers or 1000meters.

Denier: It is a direct system of count. It is defined as follows- No of grams per 9 kilometers or 9000meters.

Metric count (Nm): It is an indirect system of count. It is defined as follows- No of kilometers per Kilograms. 

Jute count/Spyndle: It is a direct system of count. It is defined as follows- No of lbs per 14400 yds

Worsted count: It is an indirect system of count. It is defined as follows- No of hank of 560yds length per pound.

Chart for Direct system
 Chart for Indirect system
Conversion of count
For cotton yarn, length of 1 Hank = 840 yards. Whenever the type of count is not mentioned with the count, it is understood that it is the English count.



Gearing system, Driving Mechanism & Production Calculation of Tappet Loom

Tappets are generally used in loom for heald shedding. In the simplest types of tappet-shedding motion, the shedding cams or tappets are mounted on the bottom shaft and the motion is suitable only for weaver repeating on two picks. Such as plain, weft rib or hair cord weaver. The principle of tapper shedding motion consists in using a tappet inspiring upon an anti friction roller or bowl, supported in a treadle, the heald shaft being directly or indirectly connected to the treadle from which it is operated. A very large portion of the total output of woven depends on tappet looms.

Objectives

To know about the gearing system and production system of a tappet loom.

Related machine parts
  1. Motor
  2. Motor pulley
  3. V-belt
  4. Machine pulley
  5. Crank shaft gear wheel
  6. Bottom shaft gear wheel
  7. Tappet

Diagram


Accessories | Accessories used in textile industry (Garments)

Today I will show you some pictures of Accessories used in textile industry (in Garments). You know there are many types of accessories are used in different types of garments according to buyer requirements. 

Thank you 

Here, pic of some accessories are given below:


  Main Label

 Size Label

 Care Label

 Elastic
 Tag

 Price Label

 Tag Pin

 Tissue

 Size Label

 Twill Tape

 Snape Button

 Lycra Label

 Polly Bag
 Carton

 Organic Tag

 Blister

 Zipper

 Zipper Pulley

Plastic Button




What is Import? | Terms of Import | Types of Import | Types of Importers | Requirements To Import Textile Goods From One Country to Another Country

Generally, import means bring (goods or services) into a country from abroad for sale.The term import is derived from the conceptual meaning as to bring in the goods and services into the port of a country. The buyer of such goods and services is referred to an importer who is based in the country of import whereas the overseas based seller is referred to as an exporter. Thus an import is any good (e.g. garments) or service brought in from one country to another country in a legitimate fashion, typically for use in trade. Import goods or services are provided to domestic consumers by foreign producers. An import in the receiving country is an export to the sending country.

It is an important subject and should be handled with extreme care and caution. It is advisable that before finalising the terms of Import Order, you should call for the samples or catalog with detail specificatio . Once you are satisfied with the samples and the creditworthiness of the overseas supplier, you can proceed to finalise the term of the contract to be entered into. For this purpose, the Import Contract should be carefully and comprehensively drafted incorporating therein precise terms, all relevant conditions of the trade deal. There should not be any ambiguity regarding the exact specifications of the goods and terms of the purchase including import price, mode of payment, type of packaging, port of shipment, delivery schedule, etc.

Types of Import
  1. Industrial and consumer goods
  2. Intermediate goods and services
Direct Import - Direct-import refers to a type of business importation involving a major retailer (e.g. Wal-Mart) and an overseas manufacturer. A retailer typically purchases products designed by local companies that can be manufactured overseas.

Indirect Import - In a direct-import program, the retailer bypasses the local supplier (colloquial middle-man) and buys the final product directly from the manufacturer, possibly saving in added costs. This type of business is fairly recent and follows the trends of the global economy.

Types of Importers
  1. Looking for foreign sourcing to get their products at the cheapest price.
  2. Looking for any product around the world to import and sell.
  3. Using foreign sourcing as part of their global supply chain.  
Requirements To Import Textile Goods From One Country to Another Country
  1. Product, Standards and specifications.
  2. Import Quantity
  3. Import Inspection
  4. Total Contract Value
  5. Terms of Delivery
  6. Import Taxe, Import Duty and Charges payable at Exporting Country and payable in India on importation.
  7. Period of Delivery/Shipment.
  8. Import Packing, Import Labelling and Import Marking.
  9. Terms of Payment-Amount, Import Mode & Currency.
  10. Import Discount and Import Commission
  11. Import License and Import Permit
  12. Import Insurance.
  13. Documentary Requirements.
  14. Import Guarantee.
  15. Force Majeure or Excuse for Non-performance of Contract.
  16. Remedies
  17. Arbitration