Friday, 21 February 2014

Organogrnam of a Knitting Section

Hello all, in this post I will show you an organogrnam  of a Knitting section of a Garments industry. You know, organogram means a drawing or plan that gives the names and job titles of all the staff in an organization  or department, showing how thee are connected to each other.
It describe the hierarchy of the organization from top to bottom.It basically depends on the size of the organization.
  1. Enterprise Level
  2. Medium Business
  3. Small Business
Larger the organization, hierarchy would be complex and for smaller business it would be simple. It also depends upon the Number of Departments exist in an organization. As the matter of fact the department heads are the pilers on which one organization stands.

Like all other departments Knitting section of a Garments Industry has an organogram. An organogram of a Knitting section is given below as a sample:


 [Collected, KNITTING SECTION, TOSRIFA INDUSTRIES LTD.]


Working flow chart of Merchandising

In this post I will discuss about the working flow chart of Merchandising. I hope it will fulfill your demand who wants to be a Merchandiser. If you have any question of suggestion please inform us by textilestorage@gmail.com or Md. Zakaria,  Mobile: 01688597412

THANK YOU


The process flow chart of Merchandising:


  To develop buyer
 Receive order details 
Consumption  
Costing
Negotiate with buyer
Order receive (L/C receive)
L/C opening for purchasing materials
Sample approving
 
Approval bulk production
Production Planning 
Start bulk production 
Line Inspection  
Final inspection by buyer
Shipment
Sending documents to Buyer
Payments receive from Bank

High Temp Dyeing Method on Polyester Fabric | Dyeing of Polyester Fabric in High Temperature Dyeing Method

In high temperature dyeing method either material or liquor should circulate. Otherwise dye molecules will not penetrate inside the material. They will stay on surface only. In this method, temperature is kept in between 105-140°C and pressure is kept from 0 to 170kPa.
This method is also known as pressure dyeing which is used for highly crystalline synthetic fibers and their blends. This technique causes the fiber to swell even more than which achieved at 100°C temperature. So that dye molecules penetrate the fiber polymer system. It eliminates the need of carriers.

Recipe:
  1. Dye = x% owf
  2. Dispersing agent = 1g/L
  3. Acetic acid = 1-2 g/L
  4. Temperature = 1300C
  5. Time = 1 hr.
  6. PH =  4-5.5
  7. M:L = 1:10
Procedure
  1. At first a paste of dye and dispersing agent is prepared and then water is added to it.
  2. PH of bath is controlled by acetic acid at 4-5.5.
  3. The dye bath is kept at 600C temperature and all the chemicals with material are added to it and it is kept for 15 min.
  4. Now the temperature of bath is raised to 1300C and it is continued for 60 min.
  5. The dye bath is colored as early as possible after dyeing at 600C
  6. The fabric is hot rinsed and reduction cleaning is done if required. It is done for improving the wash fastness.
  7. Then the fabric is finally rinsed and dried
Dyeing curve: The dyeing curve is given below

Different stitches & seams of a Polo shirt making

Here, I will show some pictures of different stitches & seams of a Polo Shirt making. I think it will fullfill your demand.














Sewing sequence of a Polo Shirt in Garments Industry

In this post I will discuss on the sewing process sequence of a polo shirt making. Polo shirt is one of the most used garments of the world. It is generally made by cotton or synthetic fabric. After passing cutting section, different cut parts are assembled in sewing section by sewing operation.
Now, sewing operations of a Polo Shirt given below.


Thank you


[Collected]


Cutting | Requirements of Fabric Cutting

Cutting section is one of the most important sections for manufacturing garments in Garments Factory. To fabric cut out pattern pieces of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns from a fabric lay is called fabric cutting. It is totally different from general cutting in which exact dimension is not taken into account. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments manufacturing technology.

Requirements of Fabric Cutting:

The following points must be fulfilled in fabric cutting: 

Precision of fabric cutting: Fabric cutting should be done accurately as per exact dimension of the pattern pieces in the marker. Accurate cutting depends on methods of cutting and marker planning. If manual cutting method is used, then cutting accuracy depends on sharpness of knife, skill of operator, and attentiveness of operator. Computer controlled cutting and die cutting have their self cutting accuracy.
Consistent cutting: Whatever be the cutting method used for fabric lay cutting, it should be ensured that the shape of the cut components from top to bottom lay are of exact size and shape, otherwise the garments produced will be defective.

Infused edge: During fabric cutting, the friction between the fabric and the blade produces temperature in the blade; the temperature may be up to 3000C. If the fabric contains synthetic fibers e.g. nylon, polyester, acrylic or their blends, then fused edge may result in the fabric. Because most of those fibers melt at around 2500C. Therefore, sticking of cut edge of fabric will increase the fabric wastage. Moreover, the fused edge after cooling will form hard bid, which will be a problem of irritation during use of garments.

To avoid the problem of fused edge formation, the following steps may betaken: 
    - Reduce the height of the lay
    - Reduce the cutting speed
    - Use anti-fusion paper in the lay at regular interval
    - Lubricate the knife during cutting

Supporting of the lay: Surface of the cutting table depends on methods of fabric cutting. The table surface should be capable to support the lay as well as to ensure that all the plies are cut at a time during fabric cutting.





Sampling | Purpose of sampling | Types of sample

Here, I will talk on Sample making process (Process & Procedure Manual). I hope it will make a clear concept about sampling of a Garments. Now check the Diagram of SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS.
It is collected from TOSRIFA INDUSTRIES LTD.


 THANK YOU


 Fig: Sample making process



(Collected)

Basic Knitting Elements

There are 3 Basic Knitting elements. They are:
  1. Needle
  2. Sinker
  3. Cam 

Needle:

Function of Needle: Needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the new loop above it on the needle stem.

Types of Needle: In general there are 3 types of needles. They are
  1. Latch needle
  2. Breaded needle
  3. Compound needle
According to the butt position latch needles are 4 types:
  1. One butt latch needle
  2. Two butt latch needle
  3. Three butt latch needle
  4. Four butt latch needle

CAM:


Cams are the device that convert the rotary drive into a suitable reciprocating action for the needles or other elements.

Types of cam: There are 2 types of cam. They are: 

· Engineering cam
· Knitting cam
  1.  Knit cam
  2.  Tuck cam
  3.  Miss cam
Function of cam: The function of cam is given below
  1. Produce motion of needles
  2. Drive the needle
  3. Formation of loop

Sinker:

This is the secondary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual and collective action approximately at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles.  

Function of sinker: The functions of sinker are given below:
  1. Loop formation
  2. Holding down
  3. Knocking over

Knitting | Comparison between RIB and INTERLOCK circular knitting machine

Comparison between RIB and INTERLOCK circular knitting machine is given below:

RIB
Interlock
1.Rib has vertical cord appearance
1. Interlock has the technical face of plain fabrics on both sides
2.one type of latch needle is used
2.two types of latch needle is used.
3.one feeder is used at yarn feeding
3.at least two feeders are used
4.relaxation is less
4.more relaxation
5.Dial and cylinder needles are opposite but placed in same sequence.
5. Dial and cylinder needles are opposite and alternatively placed
6.it is not so thick and heavy structure
6. it is so thick and heavy structure
More production rate
7. less production rate
8.used to produce tops of socks, cuffs ,sleeves ,bottom edges of sweaters ,knit hats, means hosiery
8.used to produce underwear, shirts, suits, trousers suits, sports wear, dress

Definition | Tools for GSM checking_Calculation of GSM



GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric. GSM is a parameter used for specified a certain quality of knitted fabric. The production of knitted fabric is calculated in weight. For this process the GSM cutter is used. The construction of this cutter is simple. It is circular in shape with 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM.

Tools for GSM checking
  1. GSM cutter
  2. Finished Fabric
  3. Electrical Balance

 GSM Calculation

 
There are two formulas for calculating GSM

First formula

               Course per inch X Stitch length X 39.37 X 39.37 X Tex
GSM =    ----------------------------------------------------------
                                               1000 X 1000

and,

                WPI X CPI X SL(mm)
GSM =    ----------------------------- X 0.9155
                         Count(Ne)


WPI:  WPI means WALES PER INCH. We calculated the number of Wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no of total Wales by 10 inch to getting the Wales per inch.

CPI: CPI means COURSE PER INCH. We calculated the number of course in 5 inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no of course by 5 inch to getting the course per inch.

SL: SL means STITCH LENGTH. It is measured in mm unit. Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no Wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter.


MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT :

There are many ways to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn.

The equation we followed is as follow:

                 N x L x 453.6
Count =   ----------------
                 Wt x 36 x 840
Where,

N   = number of yarn in bundle.
L    = length of yarn.
Wt  = weight of yarn.


Second formula:

                    Ks x Tex
GSM =   ---------------------
              Stitch length (mm)

Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below:

              GSM x Stitch length
Ks =     -----------------------------
                          Tex





Merchandising | Merchandiser | Responsibility of a Merchandiser | Helping Hand of a merchandiser | Quality Characteristics of a merchandiser

Merchandising:
  1. The term merchandising is the process starts from buyer developing to price submitting, order confirming and they execute the order to ship goods in time with quality called garments merchandising.
  2. A garment merchandising is the garments for selling to foreign country are called garments merchandising.
  3. To know about the garments for selling to foreign country are called garments merchandising. 
Merchandise means goods bought and sold; and trading of goods. Merchandising is an activity of selling and promoting the goods.

Merchandiser: Merchandiser is a person who interacts with the buyer and seller, and also puts efforts into proper relation between buying offices/ buying agents/ agency and seller/ exporter in terms of executing an order.

A garment export unit generally has many departments like stores, cutting, production, packing, checking etc. Merchandising department is the star of the department among all the working departments in the Export concern, because Merchandising is the only department having maximum control over the departments and total responsible for Profit and loss of the company.

The job of a merchandiser is to co ordinate with the entire department in the office as well as the customers. Merchandiser meets the buyers and collects the details of their requirements etc., to develop the relationship with the customer.

Responsibility of a merchandiser:
  1. To negotiate the price for seller, if price is high, then it is less chance to get the order, on the other hand if price is low, then there is a chance to incur the loss for the factory, so, it is a very risky job for a merchandiser and have to remember it.
  2. Have to give more computation price, without comprising the price.
  3. Have to maintain a good relation with the buyer for getting more order in future.
  4. Have to purchase all materials (fabric, accessories) in comparative price for making garments as for buyer instruction regarding quality.
  5. To execute the order within the limited time that is timely delivery is must otherwise if goods are not ship in time then buyer will not accept the goods. In that case it will be big loss for the factory.  
Helping Hand of a merchandiser: 
  1. Production Manager
  2. Accountant 
  3. Pattern Manager/Master
  4. Quality Control Manager
  5. Commercial Manager
Quality Characteristics of a merchandiser:
  1. Should have Job Knowledge
  2. Should be hard worker
  3. Should be responsible for the job
  4. Should be smart but not over smart
  5. Must have knowledge of computer literacy. Specially email, internet, browsing, Ms Office
  6. Should be able to work intelligently
  7. Should have ability to improve public relation
  8. Should have well behave personality
  9. To have capacity to motivate people
  10. Should have good knowledge about calculation
  11. Should have good knowledge about development in recent activities in this sector
  12. Should have knowledge about quality
  13. Should have good knowledge about production
  14. Should have good knowledge about merchandising & it's permeation
  15. Should have good knowledge about  English spoken