Thursday, 20 February 2014

Experiment | Study on Picking Mechanism of Tapped Loom

Introduction: Passing the weft thread, which traverse across the fabric, through the shed is called picking. Picking is a primary motion. These motions must occur in a given sequence, but their precise timing in relation to one another is also of extreme importance on a power loom.

Picking is mainly two kinds. They are
  • Hand picking
  • Power picking
Hand Picking is two kinds. They are
  • Throw shuttle 
  • Fly shuttle
Power Picking is two kinds. They are
  • Conventional 
  • Modern
Conventional picking is two kinds. They are
  • Tappet& cone
  • Bowl & shoe
Tappet & cone picking is two kinds. They are
  • Cone over picking 
  • Cone under picking
Bowl & shoe Picking is two kinds. They are
  • Side lever 
  • Side shaft
Modern picking is 4 kinds. They are
  • Torsion bar
  • Air jet
  • Water jet
  • Rapier
Objects:
  • To learn about the m/c parts of picking mechanism To get knowledge how will the bottom shaft help in case of picking
  • To learn about the effect of subsequent process
Main parts:
  1. Motor
  2. M/c wheel
  3. Picking wheel
  4. Bowl
  5. Motor pulley
  6. Sicle level
  7. Shuttle
  8. Picker
  9. Spring
  10. Bottom shaft
  11. Bottom shaft wheel
Working procedure: Motor supplies the power, when motor pulley rotates the m/c pulley is also rotate and crank shaft wheel gets power for rotating. Thus crank shaft wheel teeth are half them bottom shaft wheel. So, crank shaft wheel rotates two times that time bottom shaft wheel rotates one time. Than picking wheel also rotates due to fixed. In the parallel pick method, a curved shoal fixed to the bottom of picking sticks rides on a horizontal plate fixed to the sley sowrd. When bowl rotates and to give pressure on the side shoe and l- level moves to forward direction and weft is occurred.

Comments: By performing this experiment, we have gained vast knowledge about various m/c pars which are help for picking mechanism. It helps us to increase our skill.



Costing | Price breakdown of a Basic Trouser/Pants

Making a FOB, C&F, CIF price quotation from the following information:
  1. Fabric price: $1.60/yd, width: 59 inch 
  2. Pocketing fabric: $0.50/yd, width: 43 inch 
  3. Outseam: 43 inch 
  4. Thaigh: 26 inch 
  5. CIM: $1.50 
  6. Trimmings: $0.50 
  7. Shipment: Hamburg, Germany

Solution:

We know, Fabric consumption = half thaigh × outseam × 4 Outseam with allowance = outseam + allowance
                                      = 43 + 2 + 1 = 45 inch
 Half thaigh with allowance = half thaigh + allowance
                                         = 13 + 1 = 14 inch

Fabric consumption = 45 × 14 × 4 = 2520 sq.inch

Again, 1 yd = 36 inch × 58 inch = 2088 sq.inch

Then, Fabric needed = 2520/2088 yd/pc = 1.20 yd/pc
                                                                 = 1.20 × 12 yd/dz
                                                                 = 14.4 yd/dz + 5% wastage =   14.45 yd/dz

 Pocketing Fabric = (12 inch × 8 inch) × 4  + (8 inch × 8 inch) × 2
                           = 384 + 128 = 512 sq.inch

Again, 1 yd = 36inch × 42inch = 1512 sq.inch

Pocket fabric needed = 512/1512 =  0.33 yd/pc
                                                       = 0.33 × 12 yd/dz
                                                       = 3.96 yd/dz + 5% wastage = 4.01 yd/dz

Now, fabric cost =  14.4 × $1.60  =  $23.04/dz
   pocketing cost =  4.01 × $0.50  =  $2.00/dz
                  CIM                           =  $1.50 /dz
                  Trimmings                   =  $0.50/dz
                  Total                           =  $27.04/dz (fabric cost + pocketing cost + CIM + Trimmings)
     
 Now, Total (Production cost)  = $27.04/dz
                     Commercial cost = $1.50/dz
                     FOB price         = $28.54/dz (Production cost + Commercial cost)

Now,       FOB price    =  $28.54/dz
               Freight         =  $1.25/dz
               C&F price   =  $29.79/dz (FOB price +Freight)

Now,      C&F price   =  $29.79/dz
              Insurance     =  $0.70/dz
             CIF price     =  $30.49/dz (C&F price +Insurance)

Mathematical Problem | Spinning

Design a Process sequence from draw frame to ring frame to produce 60 Ne yarn if the maximum draft of roving frame is 3 and ring frame is 40 [ sliver hank=0 .12]

Solution:

 

1st step: Draft = Yarn count / Roving count [where, yarn count = 60 Ne, Draft = 40] 
              So, Roving count= 60/40=1.5 Ne

2nd step: Required draft= roving hank / sliver hank, [where, roving hank=1.5, sliver hank= 0.12] 

                = 1.5/0.12= 12.5 

Here, required draft of roving frame is 12.5, but maximum draft of roving frame is 3. So, one m/c is not sufficient for production. That’s why; another m/c must be used. 



3rd step: For new roving frame: Roving frame hank= 0.12*3=0.36 [where, Draw sliver hank=0.12,           Roving draft= 3]

4th step: Required draft=1.5/0.36=4.16 [where, roving hank=1.5, sliver hank= 0.36]

Here, required draft of roving frame is 4.16, but maximum draft of roving frame is 3. So, two m/c s is not sufficient for production. That’s why; another m/c must be used.



 

5th step: Roving frame sliver hank (2) =3*0.36=1.08 [where, roving hank (1) =0.36, roving frame draft=3]

6th step: Required draft=1.5/1.08=1.38 [where, roving hank=1.5, sliver hank= 1.08]


Total Draft: 3*3*1.38= 12.42 [Ans]

Cutting | Fabric Cutting

Cutting is the major operation of the cutting room, when the spread fabric is cut into garment components. Of all the operations in the cutting room this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious mistakes. Cutting can be done manually using powered knives or by computer-controlled system.

Requirements of the Cutting Process-

1. Precision of cut- It depends on :
         - Methods of cutting employed.
         - Marker planning- distance between two pattern pieces.
         - Marker marking- correct marking by pen/pencil.
         - Condition of cutting equipment- machine, blade etc.
         - Skill and motivation of the operator. 

2. Clean edge- Free from fraying.
3. Unfused edge- High temperature produced during cutting can fuse fabric edges by melting. Unfused edges can be ensured by taking the following measures: 

         - Well sharpened blade.
         - Use of anti-fusion (heat absorbent) paper.
         - Spraying silicon lubricants on the blade.
         - Less cutting speed.
         - Reducing the height of the lay. 

4. Support of the lay- using a polyethylene sheet or nylon bristle under the bottom ply
5. Consistent cutting- all plies should be of same dimension

Cutting Techniques-


Manually Powered Knife:
Rotary blade- small instrument, electrically operated octagonal blade, very sharp edge, grinding wheel attached, fabric should be clamped before cutting. Suitable for relatively gentle curve cutting & for less ply height.

Straight blade- straight reciprocating blade of upto 13" height and 0.5" width could be sharpened by attached grinding wheel. Most commonly used, could be used for larger depth of fabric, high cutting speed, sharp corners could be cut; but blade deflection occurs and higher the depth of fabric greater the possibility of deflection

Band knife- endless loop of flexible blade, one side sharpened, thinner than straight knife, machine stationary whereas the fabric moves, much more accurate cut for smaller parts, suitable for cutting sharp corners. Not suitable for large parts, more fabric wastage as block piece of fabric is required; workload is high due to stationary cutting machine.

Die cutter- suitable for smaller garment parts like shoulder pads, very accurate for sharp corners & circular patterns. Not suitable for larger parts, difficulty in producing dies (labour, time), higher fabric wastage due to use of block pieces

Computerized Technique:

     - Knife cutter
     - Laser cutter
     - Water jet 


Plasma jet Choice of Cutting Technique: The following points should be considered while choosing cutting techniques:
  1. Availability of cutting machines.
  2. Number of plies or spread height- band knife for up to 6" height, straight knife for higher height.
  3. Type of garment parts- straight knife & knife cutter for bigger parts, band knife for sharp corner, die cutter for small parts like pockets.
  4. Type of fiber in the fabric- laser cutter should not be used for thermoplastic fibers, water jet is suitable for low absorbency fibers like polyester.
  5. Cutting speed required- computerized method for higher speed.
  6. Quality of cutting- computerized techniques for high quality cutting.
  7. Volume of production- straight knife & computerized techniques for higher volume
  8. Cost of cutting. 


Terms | Different Terms used in Garments Sector

Allowance: Some extra measurement is added with actual body measurement while making garments. This extra measurement for making garments is known as allowance. For example, if the chest measurement as are 100cm than it is counted as 100+2+2cm while making pattern. Here, 2+2cm is allowance.
Armhole: Armhole is the boundary measurement of arm where the sleeve is attached with garments.

Back tacking: back tacking is a safe stitch which is done after completing a stitch the direction of back tacking is opposite to the main stitch. Back tacking is done to protect the unwinding of the stitch and its length is normally 1cm to the back ward direction.

Back stitch: back stitch is a pattern which is made without any allowances or any style of garments.

Bar tack: Bar tack is a re-stitching over a small length after completing a stitch. There are some components of garments which are required to bear excess load than other components. That’s why; the stitch strength of those components should be more than other components. So, re-stitching is done over the stitch of those components to bear the extra load which is known as bar tack. As for example, bar tack is done to the corner of the pocket belt loop etc.

Button measurements:
the diameter of the button is known as button measurements. The unit of button measurements is ligne. 
1 ligne = 0.635mm

Bundle: after cutting of fabric similar parts of garments are kept by tiding them up temporarily, this is convenient to shift from one place to another which is called bundle.

C, B line: C, B line means centre back line. It is the straight line through the midpoint of the body in back part of a shirt.

C, F line: C, F line means centre front line. It starts from the collar and ends to the bottom hem and passes through the middle of the front part of a shirt.

Crutch point: The point at which the two inside seam of a part is connected together is known as Crutch point.

Dummy: It is a copy of a human body. It is made of plastic. Rubber, stone etc, it is usually used to check the fitting of a garment. In the shop different dummies are used to display their products in wearing condition. There are different sizes dummies are found in the markets.

Epaulet: The sharp which is used in the shoulder of overcoat, jacket, sportswear etc are known as Epaulet. It is used in the garments to protect the unwilling extension at shoulder point.

Grading: The making of different sizes pattern from the master pattern is called grading.

Grain line: The straight line with arrow which is drawn on every pattern pieces to indicate the grain of fabric is called grain line. This line is used to place the pattern parallel with the grain of fabric/cloth.

Work wear: The garments which are worn while working to protect the body from adverse environment and dust are called work wear.

Or, The garments specially produced to encounter adverse environment condition is known as work wear. It is produced for workers who are working in adverse condition.

LC: It means letter for credit. The letter or document issued by a bank which ensures the certainty to pay the price of products/goods in favor of buyer of those goods is called LC. LC is an important document on export, import business.

Back to back LC: If the raw materials are imported from a foreign country and the produced goods by those raw materials are again exported to that country, then the LC opened for that business is called back to back LC. The raw materials which are imported by back to back LC cannot be sold in local/open market.

Invoice: It is an important document in business which is sent with the goods after setting. The invoice includes items descriptions, prices, no of cartoons, number of items in every cartoon etc. Any shipment is not allowed without commercial invoice.

FOB: FOB means “Free On Board”. It is a pricing system. If the price of goods is mentioned in the invoice without any transportation cost, then this system is called FOB price-system.

C & F: C&F means “Cost and Flight”. It is a pricing system. If the actual price of goods and transportation cost are mentioned in the invoice, then this system is called C & F price system.

CIF: CIF means “Cost, Insurance and Flight”. It is a pricing system. If the actual price of goods and transportation cost and insurance cost are mentioned in the invoice, then this system is called C & F price system.


A Brief Review On Bamboo Fiber

Bamboo fiber is a regenerated cellulosic fiber produced from bamboo. It is made from the starchy pulp of bamboo plants, processed from bamboo culms. This textile fiber is fabricated from natural bamboo and other additives. It looks like cotton in its un-spun form. Repeated technological analysis has proved that this kind of fiber has a thinness degree and whiteness degree close to normal finely bleached viscose and has a strong durability, stability and tenacity. Bamboo fiber fabric is made of 100% bamboo pulp fiber. It is characterized by its good hygroscopicity, excellent permeability, soft feel, easiness to straighten and dye and splendid color effect of pigmentation.
Many bamboo fiber manufacturers apply extensive bleaching processes to turn the color of bamboo fiber into white. However, the companies engaged in producing organic bamboo fabric leave the bamboo fiber unbleached. Bamboo fiber is thinner as compared to hair and has a round and smooth surface which makes it abrasion proof.


View of Bamboo fiber:


Longitudinal View: 

 


 Cross Sectional View:




 Properties & Features:
  1. Bamboo fiber is a bast fiber.
  2. In early times it is used as arrows, paper, building material etc.
  3. There are approximately 1000 species of Bamboo
  4. No need of pesticides
  5. It reaches about 300m in height
  6. Growing bamboo is considered eco-friendly agriculture
  7. Softer than cotton, with a texture similar to a blend of cashmere and silk.
  8. Because the cross-section of the fiber is filled with various micro-gaps and micro-holes, it has much better moisture absorption and ventilation. Moisture absorbency is twice than that of cotton with extraordinary soil release.
  9. Natural antibacterial elements in bamboo fiber keep bacteria away from bamboo fabrics.
  10. Garment of bamboo fiber can absorb and evaporate human sweat in a split of second just like breathing. Such a garment makes people feel extremely cool, comfortable and never sticking to skin even in hot summer.
  11. 100% bamboo yarns show a great elasticity i.e. nearly 20%. Even in 100% bamboo woven fabrics a remarkable elasticity can be obtained wherein the use of elastomeric fibers like elastanes may be eliminated.
  12. Bamboo fabrics need less dyestuff than cotton, modal or viscose. It seems that the absorption of dyestuffs is remarkably better. Bamboo absorbs the dyestuffs faster and shows the colors better.
  13. Anti-ultraviolet nature of bamboo fibre has made it suitable for summer clothing, especially for the protection of pregnant ladies and children from the effect of ultraviolet radiation.
  14. Product of bamboo fibre is eco-friendly and bio-degradable.Chemical

Chemical Structure of Bamboo fiber:






Processing of Bamboo fiber:
Two types of processing are done to obtain bamboo fibers- 1. Mechanical Processing and 2. Chemical Processing. However, in both the processes, the raw bamboo has to be split to get bamboo strips. After that, bamboo fiber is extracted either through chemical or mechanical processing.

Chemical Processing : It is basically hydrolysis alkalization. The crushed bamboo is "cooked" with the help of Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) which is also known as caustic soda or lye into a form of regenerated cellulose fiber. Hydrolysis alkalization is then done through carbon disulfide combined with multi phase bleaching. Although chemical processing is not environmental friendly but it is preferred by many manufacturers as it is a less time consuming process.

Mechanical Processing : In this method, the crushed bamboo is treated with biological enzymes. This breaks the bamboo into a mushy mass and individual fibers are then combed out. These fibers can then be spun into yarn, which is then used as bamboo fabric or linen to make cloth products. The mechanical processing of bamboo fiber is very eco-friendly, and is similar to the manufacturing of flax or hemp cloth. 

It can be shown by following way:

Raw bamboo → bamboo strip → steaming of bamboo strip → crushing and decomposing → biological enzyme degumming → fiber carding →natural original bamboo fiber

  
              Flow chart of bamboo fiber


There also 2 others processing systems. They are:

Environmentally Friendly Chemical Processing: The Lyocell process is generally considered to be the most environmentally friendly method of manufacturing bamboo cloth fiber. This is because it is in general more sustainable than most common chemical processing methods. According to the FTC, Lyocell is defined as a cellulose fabric made by an organic solvent spinning process. The chemicals used in this processing method are non-toxic and much safer for humans than other traditional processing chemicals. About 99.5% of the chemicals used are captured in a close-loop container, which means they can then be recycled with minimal amounts of them being released into the environment, avoiding air and water pollution.

Right now, people are still in the process of the developing new manufacturing methods to add to the available “green” options of bamboo fabric making. One of these processing methods is Greenyarn, which makes use of chemicals to form nano bamboo charcoal particles that can be woven into fabrics.

Common Chemical Processing Method:
The most common chemical method of bamboo fabric manufacturing involve the use of carbon disulfide. First, the bamboo is crushed and its moisture kept at about 65%. The substance is then sulfirized by the addition of the carbon disulfide chemical. This step turns the bamboo cellulose solution into gel, which is in turn diluted using sodium hydroxide. The ensuing product is a viscous solution that gets passed through various nozzles and then place into another chemical solution and left to harden. After it has hardened, it gets converted into thread and spun into actual, usable fabric.

Regardless of how it is processed, bamboo makes for a very versatile clothing material. It has antibacterial qualities, for one, which it retains even after multiple washings. This means that bacteria that tend to thrive in clothing and cause unpleasant odors tend to not be as present in bamboo fabric. Bamboo can even kill odor causing bacteria in the wearer’s skin. It also has insulating qualities that help keep you warm in winter and cool in the summer. 



Applications of Bamboo Fiber
After gaining popularity as a green fiber, bamboo has found place in significant fashion circles. However, questions are often raised due to textile chemicals applied to bamboo for making them usable as fibers for clothing and other textile products.

Bamboo Clothing: The inherent anti fungal and antibacterial properties of bamboo fabrics make it suitable for such clothing as underwears, t-shirt and socks. It is especially preferred for making summer clothing as it gives protection against UV rays and for being naturally cool. The softness, sheen and drapabaility of bamboo fabric make it suitable for fashion clothing and fashion accessories like scarves. As it has good absorption and is breathable, it can be used in making any type of garments especially sports wear and inner wear. In fact, some manufacturers use a blend of 4% Lycra with bamboo to make sportswear. The softness of bamboo yarn also makes it ideal for making infant wear.

Home Furnishings Fabrics: Bamboo fabric has also come to occupy important place in manufacturing of home furnishings due its many qualities including, softness, strength, & durability among others. It is used in making cushion covers, table linen, bed linen, curtains, beddings and pillow, kitchen linen etc. Wallpapers and curtains made from bamboo fabric can absorb ultraviolet radiation very well. Upholstery fabrics are usually made with bamboo blends.

Bathroom Textiles: Bamboo fabric is increasingly being used in making bathroom furnishings. Bamboo bath towels and bath robes have soft and comfortable feel and excellent moisture absorption capability. The natural antibiotic property provides hygienic conditions as well as prevents bad odor. They are also suitable for making bath mats due to good absorbency.

Non woven fabrics: Bamboo pulp is also used for making non woven fabrics that are then used in making hygiene products such as sanitary napkin, masks, mattress, absorbent pads, food-packing bags. Again, they are preferred for such products due to anti-bacteria and absorption properties.

Medical and Hygienic Clothing & Products: Apart from non wovens, bamboo fabric itself is also used in the production of such items as textiles for surgical practices including masks, bandage, gowns etc. apart from linens, towels and drapes in hospitals.

Drawbacks of Bamboo Yarn
Bamboo textiles can be called a mixed bag from the ecological point of view. While the crop gets high marks environmentally, its processing into fabric fetches negative marks. Strong solvents are used to make bamboo fibers suitable for any textile use. These solvents affect the environment as well as the health of processing-plant workers. However, recently developed processes, such as closed-loop systems for processing of Lyocell and Tencel fabrics, use safer solvents such as acetic acid. These may also be used more frequently for organically-processed bamboo textiles. However, this depends upon how much the consumer is ready to pay for, as these processes involve huge expenditure. Apart from the chemicals destroying the natural advantages of bamboo fibers, the other drawback of bamboo fabric is that it shrinks a slightly higher than cotton.

With its few disadvantages, bamboo is still beneficial fiber, more so if processed mechanically. Its yield is 10 times that of cotton, without using any fertilizers or pesticides. Additionally, even organic cotton uses a huge amount of water for growing, whereas bamboo grows without any irrigation, often on hill slopes where nothing else can be grown. It really can give an option for sustainable development for those engaged in producing bamboo and manufacturing bamboo textiles and other products. 



Definition | Characteristics of Sulpher Dye

Sulpher dyes are complex heterocyclic molecules or mixtures formed by melting or boiling organic compounds containing amino and nitro group with Na polysulphide. Sulpher dyes are so called as they all contain sulpher linkages within their molecules.

Dye - S - S – Dye + 2[H] = Dye – SH + SH – Dye
     [Water insoluble]                 [Water soluble]

Dye – SH + SH – Dye + 2[o]  Dye - S - S – Dye + H2O
    [Water soluble]                            [Water insoluble]

Characteristics of sulpher dye-

1.       Sulpher dyes have sulpher linkages within their molecules.
2.       Sulpher dyes are highly colored water insoluble dyes.
3.       They have no direct affinity towards cellulosic fiber.
4.       Sulpher dyes have good light fastness with rating about 4.
5.       These dyes have excellent wash fastness with rating about 3-4.
6.       They are exclusively amorphous.
7.       Sulpher dyes are suitable for heavy and durable shades.
8.       Sulpher dyes are cheap and easy to manufacture.

Definition | Seam | Types of Seams

Seam: A seam is a joint between two pieces of fabric or it is ‘the application of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several thickness of material’. a superimposed seam

Types of seam-
  1. CLASS 1- Superimposed seam
  2. CLASS 2- Lapped seam
  3. CLASS 3- Bound seam
  4. CLASS 4- Flat seam
  5. CLASS 5- Decorative stitch
  6. CLASS 6- Edge neatening
  7. CLASS 7 seam
  8. CLASS 8 seam

SUPERIMPOSED SEAM:
This is the commonest construction seam on garments which is formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of material on another.



LAPPED SEAM: The simplest seam type in this class is formed by lapping two pieces of material. This seam is not common in clothing because it causes problems with raw edges and at least one of the edges must be neatened in a decorative manner.



BOUND SEAM: The seam consists of an edge of material which is bound by another, with the possibility of other components inserted into the bindings.



FLAT SEAM: Seams are referred to as flat seams because the fabric edges do not overlap. They may be butted together without gap and joined across by a stitch which has two needles sewing into each fabric and covering threads passing back and forth between these needles on both sides of the fabric.



DECORATIVE STITCH: This is the first of the two classes of seam which, in the old British Standard, were not regarded as seams at all and were given the name ‘stitching’. The main use of this seam is for decorative sewing where single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layer of fabric. These several layers can be folds of the same fabric.


EDGE NEATENING: This is the other seam class that was called a stitching. Seam types in this class include those where fabric edges are neatened by means of stitches (as opposed to binding with another or the same fabric) as well as folded hems and edges. The simplest is the fabric edge inside a garment which has been neatened with an over edge stitch.



CLASS 7 SEAMS: In this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a garment part. They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides. Examples would be a band of lace on the edge of a bra.


CLASS 8 SEAMS: The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one piece of material need involved in constructing the seam. The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans, raincoats, etc.

Normal Wash | Objectives | Garment Washing Process With Normal Wash

Normal Wash: Process in which heavy or slight soiling is removed and transferred to the water in the form of a solution or dispersion. It is the most simple type of wash with lowest washing cost. By this wash the starch materials present in the new garments is removed together with dirt as well as make soft hand feel effect. it is a mandatory wash made for all woven garments, specially for yam dye

                                                                   Normal Wash

Objects of Normal Wash: The primary object of normal wash is to desizing and increasing the cleanliness of garments and  the secondary object of normal wash is to make a soft hand feel effect and desired fading effect.
Normal wash is required for the following reasons:-
  1. To remove dust, dirt, oil spot, impurities from the garments.
  2. To remove size materials from the garments.
  3. To remove starch presents on the garment fabrics.
  4. For soft feeling to wear the garments after purchasing.
  5. To achieve buyer washing standard.
Washing Process of Normal Wash: The Normal/Garment washing process of batch of 100kg Garments are described below:-
 
First Step : Desizing 
  1. Lot size: -.......................100 kg denim garment.
  2. Add water @ L: R = 1: 5 ............500 Litre.
  3. Machine Running for 2-3 mins to soak the garments by water.
  4. Temperature is raised at 50°c - 60°c by steady steam supply.
  5. Add desizing agent (alpha amylase) @ 1% = 1 kg and run for 20-25 mins.
  6. Temperature raised to 85°c to 90°c.
  7. Drain off the liquor.
Second Step : Rinsing
  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 2/3 = 200-300 Litre.
  2. Temperature is raised at 40°c and washed for 5-7 mins.
  3. Drain off the liquor.
Third Step : Washing
  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 5 ............500 Litre.
  2. Machine Running for 2-3 mins and add 1% = 1 kg detergent.
  3. Temperature is raised at 40°c - 60°c and continued for 15-30 mins.
  4. Drain off the liquor.
Fourth Step : Rinsing
  1. Add water @ L: R = 1: 2/3 = 200-300 Litre.
  2. Temperature is raised at 40°c and washed for 5-7 mins.
  3. Drain off the liquor.
Fifth Step : Softening
  1. Add water @ L : R = 1: 5 ......... 500 litre.
  2. Add softener (silicon) @.5% - 1% = 500ml - 1L
  3. Wash for 5-10 mins at room temperature.
  4. Drain off the liquor.
  5. Unload the Garments on trolley.
Sixth Step : Hydro Extractor Machine
 
              Hydrocxtraction the garment to remove excess water from the Garment.
 
Seventh Step: Drying  
              Dry the Garments

Eighth Step: Delivery  
              After drying it will be quality checking and good quality Garments will be delivery to Garments factory



Garments Washing | The objects of Garment Washing

Normally garments washing means cleaning of dirty garments with soap or detergent. But it is not  industrial garments wash. Industrial garments washing is a technology which is used to modify the outlook, appearance, comfortibility and design of readyade garments made from solid color dyed or pigment fabric is called garments washing. In our country garments washing technology started from 1998 and popularity of garments washing is increasing day by day.

Depending on garments construction different types of washing process can be done. Twill/Canvas/Knitted/Corduroy - Normal wash, Pigment wash, Caustic ,Si wash Denim/Jeans/Gabardine - Enzyme wash, Stone wash, Bleach wash , Acid wash Grey fabric- Super white wash.

The objects of Garment Washing is given below: Same type of garments can produce several effects for several wash. Like this:
  1. To create wash look appearance, seems the new touch of fashion.
  2. By the washing technique, faded/old, color or tinted affect .
  3. Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, p.p spray, hand crapping, p.p spoonzing etc.
  4. To reduce size materials that imports soft hand feels.
  5. To attraction the customers/buyer by different types of fashionable washing and market development.
  6. Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments.
  7. Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing. 


Sequence of operation for dying with azoic dye | Factors affecting Naptholation

Sequence of operation for dying with azoic dye: The color producing sequence of azoic dye is mentioned below:
  1. Naptholation (Napthol is dissolved in water)
  2. Impregnation (Impregnation of fabric with napthol)
  3. Diazotization(Diazo component is prepared at 0-50C)
  4. Naptholated fabric is treated with diazo component solution
  5. Reaction and color production by couplingRemoval of excess color form fabric surface
  6. After treatment.
Factors affecting Naptholation: The concentration of napthol and their take up by material depends on the following factors:
  1. Absorption of napthol by material
  2. Impregnation time (should be 30 minutes)
  3. Type of material impregnated
  4. Material to liquor ratio (should be low)
  5. Inherent substantivity of napthols
  6. Addition of additives (increases absorption)


Auto Doffing System | Roving

Doffing: After the required length is wound on to the package, the fully wound package is replaced by empty package by doffing operation. Doffing is the process where the wounding device like bobbin will change after fully wounded by yarn.

Types:
    1. Stationary systems integrated in each ring spinning machine
    2. Mobile systems which can serve several machines.
      When new machines are equipped with automatic doffing systems, these are almost always stationary systems. Mobile systems are used, if at all, almost exclusively in existing ring spinning mills. Whereas with stationary systems all cops on a machine are doffed simultaneously, mobile systems usually feature individual doffing, often also doffing in groups. A stationary system is described below as an example for many other options.

      Automatic doffing: Automatic doffing enables labor requirements and doffing times to be drastically reduced. The fully automated Rieter F 35 roving frame performs doffing in less than 2 minutes. This has been made possible by separate actuation of bobbin rail and doffer rail by two independent frequency converters.

      Doffing sequence-
      1. Doffing sequence: 1– The bobbin rail (1) moves out and at the same time the footboard is set up.  The doffer beam with the empty tubes is lowered between the full bobbins (2).
      2. Doffing sequence: 2 – The empty bobbin pegs of the doffer beam grasp the full bobbins. (All the bobbin pegs are now occupied). The doffer beam moves up to reversing position.
      3. Doffing sequence: 3 – The conveyor belt in the doffer beam moves into intermediate position.
      4. Doffing sequence: 4 – The doffer beam puts the empty tubes onto the spindles.
      5. Doffing sequence: 5 – The doffer beam moves into top position with the full bobbins. The slide moves in and the footboard is lowered at the same time. The safety zone is free again.
      6. Doffing sequence: 6 – The bobbin rail (1) is raised to spinning start-up position. The full bobbins (2) are transported to the transfer station. The roving frame starts up automatically.
      The doffing sequence of the f35 roving frame is shown by following Figure.

        

      Conclusion: Auto doffing is very important for more production. It has added a new change in doffing system. It is safe and quick doffing system which is needed for modern technology.


      Measuring Points & Different Parts of a Shirt in Garment

      Hey! Do you know how many parts a shirt has? And what the measurement should be maintained during making a shirt? Yup! Here i will tell you the name of the parts of a shirt. Later on the edge of this post you will found the measurement for a particular size.
      Remember, the measurement have been mentioned in this post is just based on the height of Bangladeshi peoples. So you people if comes from any other country… i should say it may not be matched with you. On this fact, just take help from any related personnel from your country.

       
      Parts of Shirt:
      1. Collar
      2. Collar Band
      3. Yoke
      4. Left Front Part
      5. Right Front Part
      6. Back Part
      7. Sleeve ( L+R)
      8. Cuff
      9. Sleeve Pocket
      10. Pocket.
      Standard Measuring Points of Shirts:
      1. Collar / Neck= 16″
      2. Chest= 48″
      3. Length / CBL= 31″
      4. Across Back=20″
      5. Arm Hole=21″
      6. Arm Hole Depth= 10½
      7. Cuff=9″
      8. Pocket = 6* 5½


      Modern Blow room Line of Rieter

      Introduction: In processing the material, different types of machines are necessary, namely those suitable for opening, those for cleaning and those for blending. Different intensities of processing are also required, because the tufts continually become smaller as they pass from stage to stage.
      Accordingly, while a coarsely clothed cleaning assembly is ideal after the bale opener. For example, it is inappropriate at the end of the line. Therefore, there are no universal machines, and a blow room line is a sequence of different machines arranged in series and connected by transport ducts.
      In its own position in the line, each machine gives optimum performance – at any other position it gives less than its optimum. Also there may be advantages in different modes of transport, feeding, processing, and cleaning and so on from one machine to another along the line.

      Assembly of a blow room line: Finally, the assembly of a blow room line depends among other things on:
      1. The type of raw material;
      2. The characteristics of the raw material;
      3. Waste content;
      4. Dirt content;
      5. Material throughput;
      6. The number of different origins of the material in a given blend.
      Fig-1: Technological performance of a blow room line and influencing factors

      Blow room line:
      1. Bale opener UNIfloc A 11;
      2. Pre-cleaner UNIclean B 12;
      3. Homogenous mixer UNImix B 75;
      4. Storage and feeding machine UNIstore A 78; 5. Condenser A 21;
      5. Card C 60;
      6. Sliver Coiler CBA 4 
                        Fig-2– Rieter blow room line

      Now details are given below

      Bale opener UNIfloc A 11: Rieter UNIfloc A 11 uses single plucking roller, called as take-off roller. The take-off roller along with narrow grid results in small tufts size. The same roller can be used for processing cotton as well as man-made fibers. The roller teeth can also be replaced individually. The automatic bale opener regularly measures the profile of the lay down material for gradual level out the bales as shown in fig-2.
                     Fig-3: Bale opener UNIfloc A 11


      Pre-cleaner UNIclean B 12: The UNIclean B 12 pre-cleaner cleans the micro tufts in the first cleaning stage immediately after the UNIfloc A 11. This enables machine output of up to 1 400 kg/h to be achieved. Cleaning is performed without nipping and is therefore very gentle to the fibers and at the same time efficient. VARIOSet enables waste volume and waste composition to be adjusted optimally at the push of a button. This ensures a high level of raw material utilization. 

      Homogenous mixer UNImix B 75: The B 71/B 75 UNImix guarantees homogeneous, intimate mixing of the bale feed, even with unfavorable bale lay-down. The unique 3-point mixing process is equally suitable for cotton and man-made fibres. Eight mixing chambers ensure not only effective mixing, but also high output and large storage capacity. Disturbances during bale take-off are prevented from having an adverse impact on subsequent processes.
       
                   Fig-4: Homogenous mixer UNImix B 75:


      Storage and feeding machine UNIstore A 78: The UNIstore A 78 is used as a storage, de-dusting and feeder machine in the blow room. Its main purpose is to provide intermediate storage for material in order to ensure trouble-free blow room operation. Long piping distances are frequently found to interfere with the smooth running of the processes and intermediate storage is necessary in many cases. The UNIstore A 78 is used where a mixing opener proves unsuitable for financial, technical or technological reasons.

      The integration of a mesh screen filter inside the UNIstore A 78 eliminates the transport air, and creates an efficient de-dusting. The structure of the feeding and opening unit guarantees gentle fiber opening.
       
            Fig-5: Storage and feeding machine UNIstore A 78

      Here, 1) Material input; 2) Material discharge; 3) Opening rollers; 4) Feed rollers; 5) Perforated metal platform air discharge; 6) Light barrier for monitoring material height; 7) Open exhaust air transfer.  

      Card C 60: With its unique geometry in the carding zone, the C 60 high-performance card provides one of the main building blocks for achieving financial success. With a working width of 1 500 mm, output by the C 60 card is up to 50% higher than on conventional models – and is combined with superior sliver quality. The ratio of output to energy and space requirements is revolutionized by the C 60. It is available with coiler (CBA), integrated draw frame without leveling (SB module) and in the auto leveling version (RSB module) for use in the OE direct process.
                                                            Fig-6: Card C 60

      Conclusion: Rieter blow room is an important part of making yarn. It is the first m/c which makes input of carding m/c. It follows some line diagram in processing fiber. It is very important to follow these lines to finish the processing properly.


      Polymer system | Nylon properties | Characteristics of Nylon | Uses of Nylon

      Polymer system: The polymer system of Nylon is about 65-85% crystalline and 35-15% amorphous. The polymer is very well aligned and oriented. Inter- polymer distance is very short which caused for Hydrogen bonding.


      Nylon properties

      Physical property:
      1. Tenacity: Nylon fiber has crystalline polymer system and potential to form hydrogen bond. So it is strong fiber. Tenacity is ranges 4.3-8.8 g/d
      2. Elastic- plastic nature: Elastic property of Nylon fiber is very good due to rigid regular polymer system and hydrogen bond. Nylon fiber is 100% elastic under 8% extension.
      3. Hygroscopic Nature: Nylon filaments are not absorbent because of very crystalline polymer system but allow few water molecules to be absorbed.
      4. Thermal property: Nylon filament has poor heat conductivity and low heat resistance. Due to heat, nylon polymers become excited and as a result in a breakdown of inter-polymer bonding.
      Chemical property:
      1. Effect of acid: Nylon is hot resistance to acid. It is acid sensitive. The nylon polymer is readily hydrolyzed under acidic conditions.
      2. Effect of alkali: Prolonged and frequent exposure to alkali will also caused hydrolysis of nylon polymer. But it is les than acidic condition.
      3. Effects of bleaches: nylon filaments are white and do not require bleaching.
      4. Effects of sunlight: nylon has only few resistance to sunlight and weather. Prolonged exposure to sunlight causing breaking of inter-polymer hydrogen bonds.
      Characteristics of Nylon-
      1. Variation of luster
      2. High durability
      3. High elongation
      4. Excellent abrasion resistance
      5. High resistance to any chemical
      6. 4-4.5% moisture regain
      7. Melting point 2630C
      8. Easy to wash
      9. Specific gravity 1.14
      10. Tenacity 4.3-8.8g/d
      11. Elongation at break 18-45%
      Uses of Nylon: Nylon is most popular in fabrics for apparel, home manufacturing and industrial applications. It uses to make:
      1. Tracks pants
      2. Shorts
      3. Swim wear
      4. Active wear
      5. Wind beakers
      6. Bedspreads and draperies
      7. Parachutes
      8. Flak vests
      9. Combat uniforms
      10. Tires and life vest
      11. Netting
      12. Umbrella
      13. Luggage
      14. Packaging
      15. Meat wrapping etc 
       

      Quality control | Objects of quality control | Types of quality control | Quality characteristics

      Quality: The whole of specific property and performance to be the object of a valuation for determining whether a service is satisfying its purchaser.

      Quality control: It is an integrated system that permits economical production and supply of products to meet the requirements of users.

      Objects of quality control-
      1. To produce a standard of product that is satisfactorily accepted by the purchaser.
      2. During production, the deviations of the quality parameters are analyzed to find out the causes of deviation.
      3. The corrective action should be taken if the product does not possess the demand.
      4. Purchaser demand should be targeted.
      5. Producing and offering the product at minimal manufacturing cost
      Quality characteristics-
      1. Raw cotton: suitable length, fineness, strength and twisting capacity, etc.
      2. Yarn: count, strength, TPI, evenness, [U%, C.V%, imperfection (thick places/1000m + thin places/1000m+ neps/1000m)], hairiness, etc.
      3. Fabric: dimension (length+ width+ thickness), density (EPI+PPI), strength, GSM, dimensional stability, fastness, abrasion and pilling, spirality, etc.
      4. Garments: size, style, color, comfortness, hygienic condition, ironing, packaging, labeling, etc.
      Types of quality control-
      1. Online quality control
      2. Off line quality control
      Online quality control: Without stopping the m/c or process quality of any product is maintained. e.g.:
      1. Sliver and roving hank variation is controlled by auto leveller.
      2. Yarn fault rectified by auto coner.
      3. Yarn tension controlled by automatic tension compensating device shade variation by color dispenser.
      Off-line quality control: Quality is controlled by stopping the m/c. e.g.: Count, TPI, CSP and Evenness (U%, C.V%, imperfection) test, etc.